See Rankin’s most iconic 1990s photos in new London exhibition

Montage of photos by celebrated British photographer Rankin, showing portraits of Debbie Harry and Kate Moss, for the Rankin 1991-2001 exhibition in London
Montage of photos by celebrated British photographer Rankin, showing portraits of Debbie Harry and Kate Moss, for the Rankin 1991-2001 exhibition in London (Image credit: © Rankin)

Relive some of the cultural highlights of the 1990s by viewing some key moments in Rankin’s photographic archive. 

The celebrated photographer co-founded the seminal style magazine Dazed & Confused in 1991, which launched him on the path to global recognition… and work from its first decade appears in a new London exhibition. 

Back in the Dazed runs from May 29 until June 23  and will feature work from 200 editorial photoshoots undertaken by Rankin. 

You will be able to get up close to iconic images of Kate Moss, Kylie Minogue, David Bowie, U2, Helena Christensen, Skin from Skunk Anansie, Jude Law, Thom Yorke from Radiohead, Debbie Harry – any many, many more. 

The exhibition highlights one photographer and one magazine, across one memorable decade, says the organisers, noting that Rankin was at the forefront of Cool Britannia and the 1990s style which is still popular today. 

Helen Mirren photographed by Rankin, titled Mirren Mirren on the Wall and published in issue 46 of Dazed & Confused, 1998 (Image credit: © Rankin)

As Dazed & Confused’s first photographic editor, Rankin’s visual style helped launch the magazine and defined the aesthetics of multiple generations of British youth. 

“Those early years were great for experimentation,” he recalls. “For me, just starting out, I was like a blank canvas. 

“Because we were pretty naively fearless, we did things that ended up really changing culture. 

“It was from that time that I learnt that I love what I do, and I fell in love with the people around me – capturing them all on medium-format film.” 

Kate Moss photographed by Rankin, titled What’s the First Word That Comes Into Your Head? and published in issue 43 of Dazed & Confused, 1998 (Image credit: © Rankin)

Back in the Dazed is the first retrospective in the UK of Rankin’s groundbreaking work spanning 1991-2001, and is an ideal vantage point for exploring the culture and creative community of a period that was celebrated all over the world. 

During the 1990s, Rankin and Dazed & Confused challenged the mainstream, spearheading LGBTQIA+ representation, photographing working-class children, creating defining images of emerging actors and becoming the go-to photographer for Britpop bands. 

Not someone with rarefied tastes, Rankin made notions of ‘high culture’ available to everyday people. Through Dazed & Confused, Rankin gave ordinary teenagers a voice and allowed them access to everything from experimental music to contemporary art. 

David Newby photographed by Rankin, titled Sad Lad and published in issue 16 of Dazed & Confused, 1995 (Image credit: © Rankin)

Says exhibition curator Ellen Stone: “To understand Rankin’s work you need not look any further than the pages of his first magazine, a printed record of his thoughts and reactions to the world around him. 

“Dazed shaped Rankin’s photography and it in turn shaped other people’s view of the world. 

“Think of your favourite young actor or pop star from the 1990s, and invariably you will be remembering a Rankin picture.” 

(Left) Debbie Harry, titled Eyes Wide Shut, published in issue 20 of Dazed & Confused, 1996. (Right) photograph of Jimmy Dixon titled Circle Line, published in issue 7 of Dazed & Confused, 1994 (Image credit: © Rankin)

Based in London, Rankin is a British photographer, publisher & film director. His iconic photography has captured everyone from The Rolling Stones to The Queen. 

His work has appeared in over 40 monograph publications and has been exhibited internationally, including at The National Portrait Gallery, London, the V&A, London, and at MoMA, New York. 

Rankin’s TV work includes The Great British Photography Challenge, for the BBC, plus The Seven Photographs that Changed Fashion and No Body’s Perfect. 

Founded as Dazed & Confused in 1991, Dazed is an independent British fashion, culture and arts magazine and is part of Dazed Media, whose portfolio includes some of the world’s most influential arts, culture and fashion titles. 

Visit Rankin’s ’Back in the Dazed’ exhibition

Landing page for Back in the Dazed exhibition of Rankin photography at 180 Studios in London

Landing page for Back in the Dazed exhibition (Image credit: © Rankin / 180 Studios)

’Back in the Dazed’ takes place at 180 Studios, The Strand, London WC2R 1EA from 29 May- 23 June 2024. 

The exhibition is open to non-members of 180 Studios but time slots must be booked in advance. Click here to make your booking.  

If you’re really into portrait photography, you’ll want to check out the best lenses for portraits. See our best camera for portraits, and the best softbox lighting kits

And to shoot on a similar setup to Rankin, see the best medium-format cameras.  

Niall Hampton
Editor

Niall is the editor of Digital Camera Magazine, and has been shooting on interchangeable lens cameras for over 20 years, and on various point-and-shoot models for years before that. 

Working alongside professional photographers for many years as a jobbing journalist gave Niall the curiosity to also start working on the other side of the lens. These days his favored shooting subjects include wildlife, travel and street photography, and he also enjoys dabbling with studio still life. 

On the site you will see him writing photographer profiles, asking questions for Q&As and interviews, reporting on the latest and most noteworthy photography competitions, and sharing his knowledge on website building.