Clever lighting will make your images stand out as fine art photography. Using shadows to create pleasing shapes and tones is an exciting form of fine art expression. Here we’ve managed to reproduce a classic heart shadow effect by placing a ring between the pages of an open book.

How does the heart shadow effect work? Well, using a single desk-lamp to light the ring from behind results in the shadow forming a heart shape as it falls on the curved pages in the fold of the pages.

Normally, on a flat surface the ring would cast an oval shape depending on where the lamp was positioned – a long oval from a low angle and a smaller squat oval from a high angle.

In itself this can be a great standalone shot, but we’ve taken it one step further to create real fine art.

Experimentation with different shaped objects and various backdrops with irregular shapes can throw up some very artistic shadows.

The bonus of this still life photography technique is that using lighting this way doesn’t require as much post processing using toning and texture Layers, as the impact is provided by the atmospheric and moody lighting.

Setting up your ring heart shadow still life

To get the best shadow possible use a powerful bulb and place it more than a few feet away from the ring. Darken the room by drawing the curtains.

(Right) Elevate the lamp slightly by placing it on something to enable the shadow to form a tight heart shape.

(Left) Shoot the ring and shadow from slightly above and at a shallow angle so the shadow is well defined.

Get the best composition

Wrong ring
Although it still makes a heart shadow, keep the ring upright for the best effect.

Too tight
Make sure you leave plenty of space around the ring and shadow to allow for various crops.

Square crop
Don’t forget to crop square (as we’ve done in our final image at the top of this page) or try to balance the image symmetrically using the crop marks in Photoshop.

PAGE 1: How to set up and light your ring heart shadow still life
PAGE 2: Convert your heart shadow still life to black & white for a timeless effect

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In this fine art photography tutorial we’ll show you how to find, set up and shoot amazing still life photography subjects at home at no cost.

Images by Ben Birchall

A loose definition of fine art photography is any image that’s taken for the pure purpose of viewing pleasure. Not for commercial or editorial use and not for illustration.

Fine art is total voyeuristic photography and the end product, whether you use it on your website or get it printed and hung in your living room, will be a powerful statement of your own original interpretation of photographic art.

The best way to approach fine art photography and the main difference from most other disciplines is that there’s no brief to fulfil. You’re in control of the shooting environment and it really does inspire completely original creativity.

The easiest place to start looking for ideas is the garden shed or kitchen. There you’ll find unusual objects and props that will inspire creative thought.

Why not spend a morning at a charity shops or garage/car-boot sale, looking for inspiration? Even rusty nails can become fine art using the camera tips and photo composition techniques you’ll see here. Try basing your composition, lighting and even your post production around your props – and you’ll find the process is really much more fun!

What makes a great fine art image

Interesting subject matter is vital, along with careful attention to clean and balanced composition. Visual puns can raise the fine art bar, such as the ‘nutcracker’ shot at the top of this page, along with artistic, textured layers and mono work in the digital darkroom.

Why this shot works

• Simple subjects in an uncluttered for frame for maximum artistic impact.
• Placing an object outside its usual use can inject an artistic dimension.
• Consider contrasty or complementary backgrounds for the subject matter.
• Toning and textures feature heavily, giving an instant arty appeal.

PAGE 1: What makes great fine art photography?
PAGE 2: Essential gear for shooting fine art photography at home?
PAGE 3: Best props to use for your fine art still lifes
PAGE 4: Best Photoshop treatments for fine art photography

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Image copyright Andrew Ray

About 14 years ago, Andrew Ray owned a pet shop and had just taken up photography as a part-time hobby. However, in 2008 he became a full-time photographer, supplying his images as fine-art prints, cards and calendars to galleries and shops across the county, and selling direct at local events and through his website.

So how exactly does a pet-shop owner become a successful fine-art photographer in the space of ten years? He shares his top ten tips for selling photo prints, and afterwards we’ll show you step-by-step how to prepare your own photos for print.

Tip 1
A local gallery or craft fair is a good way of determining if people are interested in your work. A selection of 20 images produced as both mounted prints and cards is a good starting point.

Tip 2
Capture images at different times. Many of my customers prefer prints taken in the type 
of conditions they would experience, rather than the ‘golden hours’ around sunrise and sunset.

Tip 3
Offer similar images in both horizontal and vertical formats where possible, and in a variety of sizes. Don’t worry about framing, though, as most people prefer to choose their own frames.

Tip 4
Print and mount the photographs yourself when orders are received. This helps keep costs under control and prevents over stocking – commercial printing requires quantity purchases to be cost effective, and dead (non-selling) stock just ties up your capital.

Tip 5
Invest in quality equipment, including a photo printer capable of producing archival professional prints to at least A3 size. A printer that can use a variety of media will broaden your range.

Tip 6
Presentation is important. Many shops/galleries require you to supply your own card racks and photo stands. When selling at craft events, lights are important to display your work to its potential.

Tip 7
Set up a website with the option to purchase via PayPal. There 
are numerous cost-effective template style options available, such as Clikpic, which helps advertise your business and increases sales.

Tip 8
Mounted prints and cards 
are best suited to postal distribution; only specialist carriers will accept framed prints under glass. Mounted prints can easily be shipped in a flat-packed box.

Tip 9
You’ll need to inform your 
tax office if you start earning anything through self-employment, and will need to keep records for your tax return.

Tip 10
Don’t neglect your photography! It’s easy to get caught up in printing and selling, but people will expect a new selection of images to choose from on a regular basis.

How to prepare your images for selling photo prints

Step 1: Optimise
The first step with any print is to optimise the image. This means checking and adjusting the exposure as necessary, using Levels to ensure your black and white points are set, and perhaps adding (or removing) some contrast using Curves. Once the exposure is set you can accurately see and correct any colour casts.

Step 2: Resize
Some people like to resize their images so that they match the intended print size at a 300ppi resolution. Although this isn’t really necessary for small print sizes if you’re printing them yourself, it will speed up the time it takes to upload them to an online lab if you’re planning to have them commercially printed.

Step 3: Sharpen
The final step in your print preparation is to sharpen the image, which should always be done after the image has been resized because the print size has a direct impact on the amount of sharpening required. In Photoshop, use either the Unsharp Mask filter or the Smart Sharpen option, which offers greater control.

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Photo ideas don’t get much simpler. All you need to create photo art like this is a simple home studio and a collection of kitchen utensils. No fancy studio lighting or extreme macro gear required. You could even shoot this with a compact.

It’s amazing what you can photograph at home with a little bit of imagination and creativity. We’ve already shown you how to make fine-art food photos and create minature landscape pictures (out of mashed potato). Now it’s time to turn the contents of your cutlery drawer into photographic art. Take a regular kitchen fork, for example – we use them every day, but how often do we take the time to stop and admire their beauty? Probably never for most of us, and that’s where we’re missing a trick. With the right lighting, composition and treatment, everyday objects can become exciting photographic prospects.

The set-up’s simple. You need nothing more than an angle-poise lamp and a piece of white card to make a straightforward but effective tabletop home studio. Getting the lighting right requires a bit of trial and error, and it will take some experimentation before you nail it. Use your DSLR’s LCD to get a good idea of lighting and switch your picture style to black and white, so the LCD displays a mono image. This is a superb ‘pre-visualisation’ tool, and if you’re shooting in RAW (which we recommend) your files will still have all the colour information anyway, should you change your mind later on.

How to create kitchen photo art

1. Find an angle

To create strong shadows, use an angle-poise lamp so it’s easy to alter the direction of the light. Use a piece of white card to make a scooped backdrop and experiment with the angle of the lamp.

2. Camera settings

Shoot in RAW and set your DSLR to monochrome so the images on the LCD appear in black and white – most cameras can do this. It’s a great pre-visualisation tool, and your original file will still have all the colour information anyway. Working with a tripod-mounted camera enables you to use a low ISO setting for maximum quality. We used mid-range aperture settings (f/8 – f/11), but experiment with different apertures until you find the balance of blur/sharpness you prefer.

3. Processing the images

Create a Black & White adjustment layer in Photoshop and experiment with the colour sliders. Then create a Curves adjustment layer and make a generous ‘S’ curve for a hard look with strong contrast.

Everyday kitchen objects can come to life with simple but creative lighting. Frame up the shot with your camera free of the tripod to find the best compositon.

Increase the impact of your pictures by framing them as diptychs and triptychs. You can create your own templates in Photoshop, or simply download our readymade 25 free triptych frames and drop in your own images.

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Photo Ideas

In Pictures

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Nude photography has been a popular subject since the very beginnings of the medium, and even before the invention of the camera, the nude has played a significant role in all the visual arts. There’s nothing ‘nudge, nudge, wink, wink’ about this: it’s a celebration of human form, a study of the body’s landscape in all its beauty. Here, we focus on the naked female form, and give you all the expert tips and techniques you need to get started in fine art nudes – plus a free downloadable guide to posing nude models.

Getting started: finding a nude photography model

Finding a willing model to pose for your fine art nude photography is perhaps one of the biggest challenges you’ll have. If you’re lucky you’ll have a willing partner to assume the role, but this rarely seems to be the case.

The best place to find local models is online at sites such as www.modelmayhem.com, www.purestorm.com and www.onemodelplace.com. These sites are a meeting point for photographers and models. You’ll usually be able to find a local nude model who’s willing to work in exchange for prints or a disc of the images.

If you go down this route, it’s good to be absolutely clear on what’s expected from both parties, especially if there’s no financial exchange. Experienced models will most likely charge for their time, but if you want to boost your portfolio, working with an experienced model could be a worthwhile investment. It’s not just about finding someone who’s happy to be photographed nude, it’s also important to find the right type of figure for an art nude – so look at the model’s portfolio before you start. There’s a marked difference between an art-nude model and a glamour model. We used Ella Rose for our shoot. Her classic looks made her perfect for the genre, and she was keen to collaborate with us to get the sophisticated shots we wanted.

Do you need to hire studio for nude photography?

You don’t need a big fancy studio to create successful fine art nude shots, but you do need enough space to set up a couple of lights and a backdrop and be able to get far enough back to shoot a full-length image without a super wide-angle zoom. Your average sized living room should just about do it. We rented Paul’s Studio in Reading, who were on hand all day. There are plenty of studios dotted around the UK that offer similar services and many also offer nude photography courses, day events and will also arrange the model hire for you. Rates and terms vary, but you can expect to pay around £50 per hour for a studio and a model, but there’s no reason you can’t share this cost with a friend if you’re on a budget.

Once you’ve found your space you’ll need to create a good environment to work in to increase your chances of success. Your model won’t be wearing any clothes, so ensure the space is warm and comfortable. This situation has the potential to be awkward to start with so break the ice with a cuppa, and discuss ideas for the shoot before starting. Music is great for creating an ambience – choose sounds that complement the style of photography you’re hoping to achieve.

Nude photography lighting

Studio lighting can seem daunting to the uninitiated, but it needn’t be, especially these days when it’s easy to see the effects of the lights on your DSLR’s LCD. The lighting guide on below is an excellent starting point, providing three setups to get you going. If you’re new to studio lighting start with the more basic setup – you’ll be surprised at how creative you can be with one light and a reflector. Once you’re confident move onto some of the more complex high-key and low-key setups.

If you don’t have any studio lights of your own, there are places such as the www.theflashcentre.com that hire them out. You can get a two-head kit such as the Elinchrom 300RX  for as little as £14 (plus insurance and VAT) for a weekend.

However, you don’t have to use studio lighting. Daylight from a window – ideally, north-facing – can create beautiful effects. Even using your regular flashgun off camera can be an effective alternative.

By far the best approach is to know your limitations and keep the lighting as simple as possible. The last thing you want is to ruin the momentum of a shoot while you’re fiddling with the lights. If you can try your lighting ideas out on a (clothed) helper before the model arrives and have your first lighting set up in place, you’ll be off to a confident start. Don’t be too ambitious. Even if you’re a little anxious you want to appear that you’re in control. Keeping it simple is the best way to achieve this.

Lighting diagram: basic setup for nudes

This basic setup is a good start for a fine-art nude shoot. Place two studio lights at a 45-degree angle to the model at a distance of about 4 to 6 feet. Set one light as the main light by positioning it a little higher (about 6 feet high) and increasing the intensity of the flash using the dial. Locate the other light a little lower than the main light and reduce the intensity of the flash. If you only have one studio light a simple reflector makes a good alternative to the second light.

Lighting diagram: high key setup for nudes

To create a soft even light, position one light with a softbox attached in front of the model on the floor pointing upwards. Position a second softbox above the first at about 7 feet pointing slightly downwards. Use a further two lights with umbrellas to light the background so it’s a clean white. To separate the model from the background, position two large black ‘flats’ each side of the model (two large pieces of black card will do). This will create a lovely black rim around her.

Lighting diagram: low key setup for nudes

Art-nude lighting is all about showing off the lines, curves and shapes of your subject. To create more depth and a sculptural feeling, set the position of the softboxes so they’re slightly behind the model pointing back towards the camera. Experiment with the intensity of each light using the dials on the flash heads. You might need to use a lens hood to avoid any unwanted flare ruining your shot. Just using one light can also work very well with this technique, especially for more abstract images.

Essential studio kit

There are plenty of starter kits to ease you into studio lighting, such as the excellent Pro Line Apollo 300 (www.prolinestudio.co.uk). They usually contain these…

Flash lights

Studio flash lights have dials on the back that control the flash output and  a constant modelling light so you can see the effect of the light while you’re posing your model.

Umbrella

An umbrella is standard issue with most studio kits. They usually come in white, silver or gold and are used to reflect light onto the subject. They are easily attached to the flash.

Softbox

A softbox fits onto a flash unit and diffuses light onto the subject. They come in different shapes and sizes and produce a softer, more even effect than an umbrella.

Lighting stands

Lighting stands are vital for positioning flash units. The flash units attach to the top of the stands, making them top heavy, so secure them with a counterweight to increase their stability.

Backgrounds

Art-nude shoots are best shot in monochrome, so keep your backgrounds simple and stick to black, white or grey paper rolls. Black velvet is even better for rich black backgrounds.

Camera equipment and settings

For this shoot, we used three lenses on a full-frame Nikon D700 DSLR – the Nikon AF-S 24-120mm f/4G ED VR, the Nikon AF-S 85mm f/1.4 G, and the Nikon 60mm f/2.8 macro lens. The wide end of the 24-120 zoom was perfect for full body shots, while the macro was great for close-ups. But our favourite was the 85mm f/1.4. Its superb optical quality makes it perfect for half-body shots.

When you’re working in the controlled environment of a studio, your lighting is fixed, so there’s no point using the full or semi-automatic DSLR modes such as aperture priority. It’s best to switch to manual (M on the top dial), so the ambient light doesn’t mess with your exposure.

For most of these photos, we used an aperture of f/8 at 1/200 sec, as lenses tend to perform best around this aperture. Obviously, the exposure is created primarily by the aperture and the intensity of the flash, but you also want to ensure the shutter speed is fast enough to hand-hold your SLR – usually around 1/100 sec with a standard zoom lens. You also need to ensure you don’t go faster than the sync speed – this is the fastest speed you can use flash with.

In most photographic genres, a tripod is essential. However, in this situation, ditch it. You’ll be working with fast shutter speeds (1/200 sec ) with studio lights, so it’s unlikely that you’ll accidently create any camera shake by hand holding your DSLR. You’ll be able to move around the model freely, and you’ll quickly start producing more interesting shots.

Your first nude photography shoot

The studio’s lit, the model’s ready – now it’s time to get creative…

If you’re renting a studio and paying a model by the hour, you don’t want to waste time working out what to do next. Apart from stifling the creative process, it will make you look unprofessional. So have a plan. It doesn’t matter if you deviate from it, but have it in place before you start. Devise a workflow that, true to the description, flows. For example, if you plan to do three setups against a black background and two against a white, you only need to change the background once.

There’s nothing worse than having to spend hours in the digital darkroom removing unwanted marks. Perhaps the worst offenders are the marks imprinted on skin from elasticated underwear. They can take a while to disappear, so it’s best if your model arrives without wearing anything with tight elastic. An experienced model should know this. Make sure there’s a private area for your model to change and also that there’s a dressing gown so they feel comfortable between shots.

Composition tips

As with all types of photography, composition is the most important element for a successful fine art nude image. The same general rules of composition such as the rule of thirds can be applied to an art-nude shoot. It’s all about creating a sense of visual harmony in the frame. Look at the shapes that are being made by the light and the body. However, don’t be afraid to deviate from some of these rules too – it’s possible to create good images that don’t necessarily adhere to them.

The most important thing is to look through your camera’s viewfinder, scan the edges of the frame and really look at the shapes being made. The slightest change of angle can make a huge difference to the composition. Don’t be afraid to take plenty of photos and move around a little, varying the composition and angle of view in each one. Memory cards are relatively cheap these days.

Nude photography poses

Download our free nude photography posing guide – it has some great suggestions for getting started with key poses. But to get the best out of these, it’s good to understand a bit more about the theory of posing your model.

A good place to start is with the concept of ‘contrapposto’ posing. This term, borrowed from the art world, refers to the way the human body looks when the subject is standing with most of their weight on one foot – so their shoulders and arms  appear to ‘twist’ from the hips and legs.

Contrapposto crops up all the time; check out the pages of today’s fashion magazines or Michelangelo’s celebrated sculpture of David. Understanding the concept of contrapposto is key to creating pleasing poses; even if your image is going to be composed from the waist up, it’s still vitally important to pay attention to how your model’s feet are positioned. It can also be helpful to have your model wear heels because these will also force the upper body into a more curvaceous posture.

Conventions suggest that direct eye contact should be avoided when posing for an art-nude shoot. A direct gaze is often associated with racier glamour shots. However, rules are there to broken, and sometimes the direct gaze can work well.

Black and white nude photography

Mono is often used for fine art nude photography because the colour information can easily detract from the beauty in the lines, shapes, and textures of the subject. To help you visualise how your end images will look, switch the LCD on your DSLR to monochrome. This will enable you to see the images in black and white, which in turn will make it easier to see how the final images will look. It also makes it much easier to see what’s happening with your lighting.

As long as you shoot in RAW your original file will be unaffected by the mono setting because the image on the LCD is essentially a JPEG of your RAW file. This means that when you download your photos you’ll see the original colour versions. So should you have a change of heart you’ll still be able to make colour images. You also may be able to use this colour information when processing the files.

Abstracts and details

The art nude is a celebration of the shape and form of the human figure. Look for architectural shapes made by limbs and body curves. Focus in on specific parts of the body so you’re creating a near abstraction. Use one hard light to create strong shadows for more distinct abstract shapes in the curves and folds of the body. For our nude abstract above, we used a 60mm macro lens on our full-frame DSLR, which enabled us to get in nice and close to focus on details. Don’t be afraid to make radical crops in-camera such as totally cropping out the model’s head. Abstract photography is about shape, form and texture so it doesn’t matter if you can’t instantly recognise what the subject is.

Try high key nudes

There’s more to creating a good high key photo than just overexposing your shots. You need to artfully hang on to details in the highlight areas while pushing the tones as far as possible to the lighter end of the scale. Your histogram is the ideal tool to help you achieve this because you can see the tones on the graph. Ideally, you’ll need to expose as far to the right as you can without clipping. Your DSLR’s highlight-alert feature is perfect for giving you immediate feedback on clipped highlights. Turn it on.

To create the high key lighting effect, we used two large softboxes to light our model from above and below and a bright white backdrop lit with two additional lights. The risk of high key lighting is that the light tones of the model’s skin will blend with the light tones of the background. To separate the model from the background use black ‘flats’ (a large piece of something black – black card will do). Position them as close to the model as you can without getting them in the shot. The black will reflect on to the model creating a wonderful dark rim. In addition to separating the model from the background, this will also create a sculptural effect on body shapes.

Lovely Low key

Dark and moody low key lighting is synonymous with art-nude photography. The human form looks great set against a mysterious and rich dark background, while strong side lighting can add to the effect with beautiful shadows accentuating the curves and shapes of the body.

For strong shadows, set the lights slightly behind the model, pointing back towards the camera, it seems counterintuitive, but the results can be spectacular. Use your DSLR’s LCD to adjust the lights to suit the pose. You’ll notice instantly that the effect is more sculptural. As the lights are pointing in the direction of the camera there’s a risk of lens flare so attach a lens hood to help prevent it.

To create a rich black background a large piece of black velvet is ideal. The velvet absorbs light unlike other materials. If you don’t have access to a large velvet cloth, a roll of black background paper will work too – just check that it’s not reflecting any light and showing up as a washed-out black in your image.

Make the most of the power of suggestion

The art of nude photography is subtle, and often requires the photographer to suggest nudity rather than explicitly reveal it. It’s this that in part differentiates art nudes from glamour photography. The implied nude is mysterious and suggestive. Turning the model’s head so she’s looking away or into the distance is a great way to add a sense of mystery, or in the case of the low key photo below, crop it from the frame altogether. Use the model’s limbs to hide parts of the body.

Be inspired

Don’t shy away from looking at the masters of art-nude photography. Some seminal figures in the historyof photography include the likes of Edward Weston, Bill Brandt and Man Ray. Some more contemporary photographers such as John Swannell and Robert Mapplethorpe can also be inspirational. Don’t limit yourself to photography either. The nude has featured in art throughout history – a trip to an art gallery can spark off loads of ideas for both posing and lighting your model.

Nude photography model release

Finally, it’s really important that you are clear about what you intend to use the images for to avoid any misunderstanding. It’s good practice to get your model to fill in and sign a model-release form. It’s also a good idea to ask the model to bring proof of ID so you can verify their age. While the copyright of the images remains with you as the photographer, be clear about what the model can use them for too. If you’re working in exchange for services, it’s only reasonable to expect them to want to use the shots in their portfolios, and this usually means online galleries too. This is absolutely fair enough, but make sure you get a picture credit and if possible a link back to your site. It’s all about working together with your model to achieve the best results…

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In this video tutorial you’ll discover how to apply a split tone effect to your nude portraits in Photoshop. You’ll find out how to use Gradient Maps and Adjustment Layers, adjusting colours to get the desired effect. This video comes from the latest issue of Digital Camera (Issue 110 – April 2011), which this month is a fine art nudes special. Available to buy in all good newsagents, get your copy for more advice on shooting nude portraits and more Photoshop tutorials and videos.

It’s time to get creative with your dinner ingredients with one of our favourite photo ideas. In this project, we’re going to show you a few simple photography tips that you can use to take beautiful ‘fine art’ styled pictures of fruit and vegetables. Food photography is always fun, as you get to eat the subjects after you’ve taken the shots. Not that we started chewing on the red onion featured here though…

In addition to a DSLR and tripod, you need:

A light box

A light box is essential for this kind of food photography. If you don’t have one, they can be picked up second-hand through the well-known online auction sites relatively cheaply, or if you’re more adventurous, try making your own. All you need is a sheet of glass, some tracing paper and an angle-poise lamp.

A right-angle viewfinder

A right-angle viewfinder isn’t essential for this project, but it will make composing your shots a lot easier. With the camera suspended between the legs of your tripod it can be quite awkward to frame your shot. If you don’t have a right-angle viewfinder, live view is a good alternative – if your SLR has it.

A macro lens

As you’re working fairly close to the subject and you’re limited by the height of your tripod – particularly as your camera  is suspended beneath its legs – use a macro lens with a relatively short focal length. The Nikkor 60mm f/2.8 (mounted on a full-frame Nikon D700) we used here was perfect.

Fruit and vegetables

You don’t need exotic fruit and veg for this project – you can try anything you like. For a few quid you should be able to get more than enough to get started. Visualise how a specimen might look when sliced and placed on a light box. The red onion, cucumber, orange and kiwi used here worked a treat.

Camera settings and technique:

1. Set up your tripod

Remove the central column of your tripod and reattach it the wrong way round with the head hanging below the centre. This will enable you to take pictures of the flat surface of the light box more easily. Place the tripod over the light box and attach your camera. If you’re working on a small table top, make sure the tripod is secure by applying some gaffer tape around the feet, fixing it in place.

2. Prepare the food

Use a clean, sharp knife to slice the fruit and vegetables as thinly and evenly as possible, then place them on the light box. Any unevenness will affect the tonality of your image. If you’re using multiple slices, such as in our main red onion , arrange each slice carefully so that together they create a balanced and harmonious composition. Moving each slice just a millimetre or two can have a big impact on the final shot. Now close the curtains to darken the room and prepare your exposure.

3. Choose the exposure settings

Like most close-up work, it’s best to switch your focus from autofocus to manual to ensure pin-sharp results and avoid the frustration of the AF searching for a focus lock. The bright light of the light box will deceive your camera’s light meter. It’s a little like shooting in the snow – all that brightness will cause the camera to underexpose in an auto mode. For the best results dial in an exposure compensation of between +1 and +2 stops, or switch to manual mode. Ideally, you’ll want to use an aperture of about f/8 for enough depth of field. To avoid camera shake, lock the mirror in the up position and avoid touching your camera by using a cable release or self timer.

4. Check the histogram

Assess your exposure using your camera’s histogram. Don’t be alarmed if it looks like there’s some radical clipping on the highlights on the right of the graph. It doesn’t matter if they burn out – this will be down to the parts of the image that should be totally white. However, it is important that there’s detail in the subject, so check this carefully. If you’re in any doubt, take the time to download a test shot to your computer to review before proceeding.

Top tip: shooting tethered

For indoor photography projects such as this, attaching your camera directly to your computer and shooting tethered is a great way to maximise your workflow and get the best possible results. Programs such as Adobe’s Lightroom 3 make this easy. It’s particularly useful for this project, because looking through the viewfinder can be a little awkward.

Taking it further:

To make a striking and innovative piece of fruit and vegetable art we created a simple grid, bringing four of our specimens together. You can download 10 free photo grids, or create your own in Photoshop. Shoot each slice individually, then in Photoshop CS and above, or Elements, use the Free Transform tool to alter the diameter of each slice. Then copy and paste them into a new document as multiple layers and form an artful grid. Once you’re happy, print, frame and put it on the kitchen wall for a striking piece of art.

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Your flatbed scanner doesn’t need to be a mundane tool only ever used to scan old photos and boring documents. Here, we show you how to make a photogram scan and create amazingly artistic effects with your standard scanning device.

1. Scout for objects

A scanner has a very small depth of  field so your objects need to be relatively flat. The nautilus shell, glove and dried piranha we found proved excellent subjects. Just make sure the surface of your scanner is clean.

2. Background

To create a black background open the lid and place a piece of black card about five inches above the scanner, we’ve supported it on plastic tubs. you may need to experiment. depending on which scanner you’re using.

3. Make a scan

We’re using Epson software, which enables us to control the crop, resolution, exposure and colour. You’ll be able to get super high-res images, probably much higher than you’d get from a top-of-the-range DSLR.

4. Digital darkroom

Open your image in Photoshop and clean up any dust marks using the Clone Tool from the Tools Palette. You might want to crop out any distractions at the edges, such as the supports used to hold the black card in place.

5. Mono invert

Go to Image >Adjustments>Black and White and covert your shot. To replicate the an x-ray, which suits our subject matter, go to Image>Adjustments>Invert. This will reverse all the tones, essentially making a negative.

6. Split-tone

To split-tone go to Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Gradient Map. Select foreground to background and change the colour stops to blue for the dark tones and cream for the light tones.