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  #11  
Old 11-07-11, 11:48 AM
James Blonde James Blonde is offline
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I've got the same setup as you Mark (I suspect some of the others who have replied have too).

The Joystick head is fantastic, but it isn't designed as a pan and tilt head, which is perhaps what you're thinking of? To move the head around, you need to squeeze the trigger, at which point it will act as a ball head. Once you let go of the trigger, and the head will lock. So its quicker to adjust and lock than a ball head, but means that when you want to move the camera, then 1 hand needs to be pulling the trigger grip. You also can't lock of an axis of movement, so don't think you'll be able to accurately pan whilst using that head - you won't.

For what its worth, I've had absolutely no issues with weight of kit yet.
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  #12  
Old 11-07-11, 03:50 PM
markgozz markgozz is offline
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Thanks for that explanation James , you hit the nail right on the head . I may not of explained myself properly before but yes I was wondering if it could be used as a combined pan and midi ball head . It still sounds like a really good bit of kit and a lot quicker to use than my 3 way head .
I am very unlikely to have any issues with weight even with my next lens which is still on my wish list ( Nikon 300 f/4 ) .

Mark
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  #13  
Old 11-07-11, 03:56 PM
James Blonde James Blonde is offline
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Again Mark, I've got that lens, and its not a problem weight wise!

Hmm... *thinks* Does (or can) the centre pole on the tripod rotate? I'll check when I get home, but I guess theoretically, if it does, then that would allow you to pan? (although obviously the pole would have to be fully down!)

I have to say, I find the head VERY tight once its clamped, and I'd imagine that - as long as you don't force it - it'll hold most camera weights? I bought with a view to upgrading the body at some point.
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  #14  
Old 11-07-11, 04:41 PM
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Cathus Cathus is offline
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James,

I have a 5D Mk II plus battery grip & a 1D MkIV, both quite heavy compared to most cameras. If I put on my 100-400 or 50-500 & want to zoom in the head creeps, it's also very difficult to position it precisely, for instance when trying to photograph the moon you have to guess where to let go of the grip because as soon as it starts to bite the composition slips, so I end up positioning it with the moon half in the frame, letting go of the grip & hoping when it settles the moon is in the centre of the frame.

Or I used to, I bought a full three-way head for such things now. Swapping them over only takes a few seconds & I get the best of both worlds using each one depending on what lenses will go on.
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  #15  
Old 11-07-11, 05:58 PM
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donoreo donoreo is offline
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Or I used to, I bought a full three-way head for such things now. Swapping them over only takes a few seconds & I get the best of both worlds using each one depending on what lenses will go on.
To say it quite simply: pick the right (or best you have) tool for the job.
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  #16  
Old 11-07-11, 08:08 PM
markgozz markgozz is offline
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Hi James

Yes it does rotate so might be worth trying it out , thanks for the suggestion .

Cathus

If I was holding your kit I think I would suffer from creep .

Donoreo

Your totally right but sometimes a little ingenuity is needed when funds are low .

Mark
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  #17  
Old 11-07-11, 11:26 PM
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Cathus Cathus is offline
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With a little care you can do quite successful panoramic pans with the trigger grip. The spirit level bubble is a useful guide. I've done quite a few nice Lake district shots with 12-18 shots all line dup with the trigger grip on a standard lens.
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  #18  
Old 12-07-11, 01:26 AM
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Donoreo

Your totally right but sometimes a little ingenuity is needed when funds are low .

Mark
That is where "the best you have comes in" We all do that, with everything.
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