I'm sure you'll be happy with a top end bridge camera, they're very good.
You might find, however, that if you try a DSLR that the extra speed and precision they are capable of will be very useful. Something like the Sony A33 or A55 with a transtandard zoom might be something to go and have a play with - just a thought.
Now someone earlier mentioned screen calibration, and I recall that jinky fingered me for getting him to buy a colorimeter and software. Andy pointed out that he didn't feel he was missing anything, and indeed he may not be. Not all monitors are created equal.
And someone else asked who decided what the colours should be. That one is easy; if a monitor is sRGB - the vast majority - then the displayed colours should map exactly to the colours set out in the sRGB colour space. If it's a wider gamut model then the colours should map to that standard.
The colour slope on my monitor was definitely changed after calibration, the dark colours becoming much richer. On the other hand, my daughter's computer runs linux and I have simply used the calibration charts on her monitor with entirely acceptable results, notwithstanding that in some images the differences can be very clearly seen.
The people who seem to have the biggest problems are those using uncalibrated Macs. Apple set the gamma, or slope, of the monitor to give a display much brighter than it should be (we all know people only buy Macs because they like shiny things, don't we

). The upshot is that if you have a calibrated monitor, either PC or Mac, it is usually pretty obvious is something has been edited on an uncalibrated Mac because the whole thing looks darker than it should and shadow detail is often poor or completely lost. But unless you have a colorimeter and software package it is best to leave the gamma alone and tweak your brightness and contrast controls.
That said, PC displays are often factory set to look more shiny and contrasty in the shops too.
So I would say that at the very least everyone should check their monitor using one of the free tools on the web like
THIS. On my calibrated monitor the difference between all the bands is perfectly and evenly visible.
Colour accuracy is another matter entirely, and simply can't be done without the tools for the job.