Some advice please anyone.

[rapidfire]

Hi,
I am new to digital photography having started this year really when I purchased a
Canon EOS 450D and as I am interested mainly in wildlife photography recently invested in a Sigma 150 - 500mm F5 - 6.3 APO DG OS lens.
I am trying to remember everything I am reading and to put it into practise in the attempt to get clear shots but I am finding a lot of the pictures I take are out of focus especially at the high end of the telephoto range even using the OS and a fast shutter speed.
I tend to shoot on AV mode using evaluative metering and the lowest ISO I can without losing shutter speed.
Also i notice I am getting what I call 'ghosting' around the subject when shooting white birds on water such as Egrets and Swans etc.
I would really appreciate any pointers anyone can give me even if it just reassures me that I am on the right path to a clearer result.
Many thanks.
John

[ether]

Originally Posted by rapidfire

Hi,
I am new to digital photography having started this year really when I purchased a
Canon EOS 450D and as I am interested mainly in wildlife photography recently invested in a Sigma 150 - 500mm F5 - 6.3 APO DG OS lens.
I am trying to remember everything I am reading and to put it into practise in the attempt to get clear shots but I am finding a lot of the pictures I take are out of focus especially at the high end of the telephoto range even using the OS and a fast shutter speed.
I tend to shoot on AV mode using evaluative metering and the lowest ISO I can without losing shutter speed.
Also i notice I am getting what I call 'ghosting' around the subject when shooting white birds on water such as Egrets and Swans etc.
I would really appreciate any pointers anyone can give me even if it just reassures me that I am on the right path to a clearer result.
Many thanks.
John

I take it that with the standard lens you are not having any problems and that you always use a tripod with the telephoto .
At 500mm there is no room for error you must try to keep both the shutter speed up and use as small an aperture as possible even if this means turning up the iso
The reason you have to use a small aperture by the way is because no lens performs at its best at its maximum aperture
If the subject is not moving it Ok to use a lower speed shutter but any vibration of the camera will be certain disaster
The ghosting could be a number of things I assume that the lens is clean and your not using a cheap filter .
I’m not familiar with the lens you will have to hope some one else will be able to help

Ed

[rapidfire]

Thanks Ed.
I mainly use a Tamron 18 - 270mm F3.5 - 6.3 Di ll VC which gives excellent results ( or they are to a novice like myself! ) but went for the Sigma to get just that bit closer to my subject. I have to admit to not always using a tripod as it is difficult somtimes when stalking your subjects and I am going to invest in a beanbag which may help.
I notice we are neighbours so to speak as I am in North Devon and I visit the Avalon Marshes as often as I can especially Shapwick Heath and Ham Wall as both are a target rich environment.
Regards
John
PS. Not sure about the 'Junior' as I havn't fitted that description for about 40 years unless its because I've just registered!!

[ether]

Originally Posted by rapidfire

Thanks Ed.
I mainly use a Tamron 18 - 270mm F3.5 - 6.3 Di ll VC which gives excellent results ( or they are to a novice like myself! ) but went for the Sigma to get just that bit closer to my subject. I have to admit to not always using a tripod as it is difficult somtimes when stalking your subjects and I am going to invest in a beanbag which may help.
I notice we are neighbours so to speak as I am in North Devon and I visit the Avalon Marshes as often as I can especially Shapwick Heath and Ham Wall as both are a target rich environment.
Regards
John
PS. Not sure about the 'Junior' as I havn't fitted that description for about 40 years unless its because I've just registered!!

I also do a great deal of natural history why wouldnt we living in the best bit of the UK lol
and although I dont have a 500mm lens I always use at least a mono pod on any thing greater than 200mm
I have a bean bag in the shape of a frog it doubles up as a prop for child portraits

Dont worry about the junior tag it goes at 30 post whats worse is you become a senior at 100 dread to think whats next

Ed

[OldBoy]

From what I've heard from other users the Sigma 150-500mm isn't as sharp as it could be. The Sigma 50-500mm F4-6.3 also called the Bigma is a better lens and well regarded by users and I've got one of those Nikon fit. It could be the OS that may be causing the problems, so suggest you switch it off on any thing over 300mm. As your other lens gives great results it's not a camera problem. You need to brace yourself whilst taking the shot, with one foot placed infront of the other and gently press the shutter release, as stabbing it can cause camera shake at that distance. Also, make sure the camera and lens are well balanced in your hands before taking the shot. Ghosting can be caused by slight movement of yourself, when taking the shot or subject movement, if the speed is too low. Use a speed of 500s or greater may solve this problem but it means the ISO will be quite high which could lead to noise in the photo. Also, lenses at this length work best in bright sunny conditions, as the light drops on cloudy days or dusk it will struggle to focus on subjects that are low in contrast.

[rapidfire]

Many thanks 'Oldboy' though sorry to hear the views on my Sigma lens as I bought it on the strength of a Photoplus review which seemed to rate it quite highly for the money but never mind I am determined to get the better of it and intend to run a few test shots this weekend ( between decorating !! ).
I had heard that sometimes the camera and lens focus does not synchronize properly and was worried that this might be the case here. The 450D does not have the ability / technology to adjust this as other EOS cameras do and the whole lot needs sending away.
I am fairly sure the main reason for my problem is down to operator error fuelled by lack of knowledge and over eagerness to obtain the results that take people such as yourself (and Ed) lots of patience and practise to achieve.
Reading up on the subject helps immensely but benefitting from other peoples experiences also works wonders when they are kind enough to pass it on.
My thanks.
John

[ether]

Originally Posted by rapidfire

Many thanks 'Oldboy' though sorry to hear the views on my Sigma lens as I bought it on the strength of a Photoplus review which seemed to rate it quite highly for the money but never mind I am determined to get the better of it and intend to run a few test shots this weekend ( between decorating !! ).
I had heard that sometimes the camera and lens focus does not synchronize properly and was worried that this might be the case here. The 450D does not have the ability / technology to adjust this as other EOS cameras do and the whole lot needs sending away.
I am fairly sure the main reason for my problem is down to operator error fuelled by lack of knowledge and over eagerness to obtain the results that take people such as yourself (and Ed) lots of patience and practise to achieve.
Reading up on the subject helps immensely but benefitting from other peoples experiences also works wonders when they are kind enough to pass it on.
My thanks.
John

There truly is no substitute for practice but don't forget you can always focus manually which is quite easy if your at infinity the key then is to remember to zoom first then focus and if you alter the zoom focus again

Ed

[pinderi]

I'm not sure if you are using a tripod or beanbag for stability as well as the OS, but I read somewhere that it is counter-productive to use OS with other methods. The OS can't cope with the 'stability' and causes blurring. I think the OS should only be used handheld.
Of course, I could be wrong as like you I'm a junior member , newish to digital photography and still learning!

[PaulMontgomery]

I suppose there are several messages here:
Camera magazines only tend to review what's current, there are very few mags which would print something like "This lens is good, but the old one was better;
All lenses produce their best results away from the ends of their specifications (stopped downa little bit, not quite at maximum zoom);
Some kind of stabilisation is always good - I use a monpod in situations like this. (I'd leave OS on on a monpod, but probably turn it off if on a tripod);
Practice makes perfect and with digital, the only cost of this practice is your time.

Hope that helps.

I forgot to add: Don't be afraid to push the ISO up to allow speed and small aperture. A noisy photo is better (in my opinion anyway) and easier to correct than a blurry one.

[Ince]

As oldboy mentioned the ghosting may be caused my slight body movement. A technique I was taught for target shooting with a telescopic sight was to always squeeze the trigger at the bottom of the out breath. Your body is most still and relaxed at this point. Breath in and out and you will feel how much your body moves.