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  #11  
Old 10-09-10, 09:08 PM
greenwing greenwing is offline
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I'm sure that your UV filter is the cause of the 'flare' in these shots. The bright flare spots are diagonally opposite bright spots in the true image. Light from the bright parts of the image is reflected off the sensor, then back off the UV filter to the sensor where it creates a ghost image. It's the first time I've seen it so clearly in daylight pictures. It's quite common in night shots - with a filter!

Best example I've yet seen for throwing your UV filters in the bin.

Chris

Last edited by greenwing; 10-09-10 at 09:15 PM.
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  #12  
Old 12-09-10, 05:43 AM
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tomlehane tomlehane is offline
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Thanks Chris - I've confirmed the issue is being caused by the (obviously rather crappy £15 Jessops) UV filter I have been using.

Any suggestions for a better brand filter without breaking the bank? Is a UV filter the best type to use day to day (my prime concern is protecting the lenses).

Cheers
Tom.
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  #13  
Old 12-09-10, 07:38 AM
greenwing greenwing is offline
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There are two schools of thought on 'protective' filters. One is that they should be fitted to all lenses at all times because you never know what might hit the front of the lens, the other that the main thing they protect against is image quality.

Guess which camp I fall into

The only time I use a protective filter is if there's a real chance of something nasty (mud, sand, salt water) coming into contact with the front element. And then, only if I can find one. I feel a lens hood protects equally well against accidental touching and minor knocks and even falls. My D80 with 18-135 and lens hood fitted felll off a chair. The hood broke, but everything else was fine. My D300s and 18-105 went on an unplanned trip over a concrete car park, with a couple of scratches to the lens hood.

edit: Use a lens hood, be reasonably careful, and fit the lens cap when you're not using the camera.

Chris

Last edited by greenwing; 12-09-10 at 07:45 AM.
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  #14  
Old 12-09-10, 04:03 PM
ianpinion ianpinion is offline
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I use a Hoya Digital Protection Filter with my best lens and so far I've not suffered with lens flare fortunately. Could be one option worth exploring if you do want to use a filter.
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  #15  
Old 13-09-10, 07:05 AM
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tomlehane tomlehane is offline
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Thanks guys.

I may take the 'greenwing' route as a first step, with a better quality filter step 2 if needed.

Tom.
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  #16  
Old 20-09-10, 01:17 PM
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Matthew Forrest Matthew Forrest is offline
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I smetimes get similar problems using my 400d,and i totally baffled me at first,i cleaned the lens,filter and at times it kept happening,then I removed my uv filter from the front of my lens when i seen the problem again when i was previewing a shot and it dissapeared.It may not be what your problem is but it solved mines.I think certain lighting conditions can cause the light to bounce from your filter causing a halo or halos of light in your shot.
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  #17  
Old 29-09-10, 03:25 PM
Dowlin Dowlin is offline
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Some compensation is needed. There are a few ways this can be achieved. Unless I want window burn-out I do this: take a reading from the window and note what the settings are. Now take a reading from the subject and again note the setting. Now set the camera manually somewhere between the two readings to balance it out. The compensation will probably be around plus or minus 1 stop.

Last edited by ap4a; 29-09-10 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Deleted spam links from post.
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  #18  
Old 22-10-10, 11:20 AM
packshotcreator packshotcreator is offline
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The best way to shoot product photos and animations clearly is by using the PackshotCreator digital solution. Every photos are simply sublime.

Last edited by chris-p; 22-10-10 at 11:42 AM. Reason: Spam link removed
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