colour fringing
 

is there anything i can do to reduce it? i have a tamron 70-300 LD Di that gets it terribly...i'm aware this is like the cheapest telezoom on the market, and that's probably why it's a bit rubbish, but it's all i could afford at the time. is there anything i can do to help reduce that horrible purple/green fringing round objects? they often look ok at the time i take them, but when i get home and look on the screen the fringing is really quite bad...

There are software tools I believe that can help after the event. Otherwise, try stopping down the lens, and avoiding the long end of the focal length range if you can.

There are other issues than the lens that can affect this (sensor design and software in the camera can play a part as well).

ok, thank you!

I have noticed this with my Tamron lens. I think, in future I will save for the canon lens rather than the cheaper alternative. I have hade functionality issues with it too and its not working well at the moment either.

[QUOTE=DigiDiva;82016]I have noticed this with my Tamron lens. I think, in future I will save for the canon lens rather than the cheaper alternative. I have hade functionality issues with it too and its not working well at the moment either.[/QUOTE]

Unless you go for the Canon 70-300L I would look at either the Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di VC USD or the Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6 DG OS as the Canon 70-300 EF-IS IMHO is not a very good lens for the money, infact I had one, sold it and got the Tamron which is far superior.

If you are on a tight budget then Canon EF-S 55-250 f4-5.6 IS is a great lens, the build quality isn't up to much but the image quality is better than the Canon 70-300 EF-IS.

I think what Alex is experiencinig is Chromatic Aberrations which are probably more obvious at the long zoom end, more expensive lenses have the necessary optics and lens coatings to reduce these they can be corrected in software I believe the Canon Digital Photo Professional software and Adobe RAW has corrections for this as does lightroom. The Canon professional software should have come on DVD with your Camera Alex although you will need to shoot in RAW and I am not sure if it will work with non canon lenses so Adobe Camera Raw which is also free may be the other option.

thanks. i don't shoot in raw at the minute (don't kill me!) but might be something i need to look at. i've found i can get rid of the colour thing with a bit of pp, but it takes forever to select all the green bits and desaturate them...i haven't used the DPP software at all to be honest - have you? is it any good (particularly if i'm still shooting JPEGs)?

[QUOTE=alexharrison101;82077]thanks. i don't shoot in raw at the minute (don't kill me!) but might be something i need to look at. i've found i can get rid of the colour thing with a bit of pp, but it takes forever to select all the green bits and desaturate them...i haven't used the DPP software at all to be honest - have you? is it any good (particularly if i'm still shooting JPEGs)?[/QUOTE]

I have used DPP in the past and it is not bad at all (I use lightroom now) however I have since checked and it is only effective in removing the Aberrations with a canon lens as it has a database of information on those lenses only.

If you are into PP then RAW is definately worth considering as the images are not compressed and contain more information so it is possible to lift more detail in PP and also make adjustments easier such as exposure and white balance. I shoot exclusively in RAW now but for quite some time did shoot in RAW + JPEG, so I had the best of both worlds. The downside of this is that you cannot fit as many images on a memory card and the images take up more hard disk space.

Oh just noticed [url=http://www.photoplusmag.com/2012/08/31/correct-the-exposure-of-a-scene-using-canons-free-dpp-software/]this[/url] article.

thanks for the advice and article, dave.