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What are your top tips for catching the action
I recently started taking sport shots so I'm looking for your top tips for capturing the action, any comments on this shot appreciated.
[IMG]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3512/3867630379_22b77a0d12.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://www.photoradar.com/photos/33826/bsmith/johny-smith[/IMG] |
I'm pretty new to this too but I have found that if I use my 70-300 mm lense on single shot I get better results than I do when I use the powerwinder as it give me less or no camera shake at all. (I mainly photograph ice hockey)
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It's an obvious one... But use the longest lens you have and leave it at the maximum focal length.
If the action appears too close and the viewfinder is completely crammed with action, so much so it feels uncomfortably tight and you get scared that you're cropping arms and legs off, that is when you need to be firing the shutter. The biggest mistake would-be sports photographers make is to pull back from the action and try to include space for the action to flow or thinking they can crop into the shot. Chances are the in-camera shot will be much looser than what your eyes saw through the viewfinder at the time. The problem with the above shot is that it's far too loose. Also, without sounding harsh, the shot lacks rugby action, like a tackle or contact action. On the plus side the player on the ball looks as though he has a good expression (many successful sports shots are simply a human facial expression), but you'd need a 500 or 600mm lens to get right in there to make the most of it. I hope that helps you progress. Ben |
Hi Ben, thanks for the crit, I've looked at other rugby shots and as you say they do fill the picture with players, it does look more dramatic. I'll give it a go this weekend and try to make it scary. I'm using a 70-300mm Nikon so my options will be a little restricted for the more distant action.
Bob |
[QUOTE=bsmith;2492] I'm using a 70-300mm Nikon so my options will be a little rest ricted for the more distant action.
Bob[/QUOTE] Hi Bob, I use a canon EOS 40D which is useful for the 6.5 frames a second, with a 70-300mm EF IS (Image Stabilised) lense it is only a F4 - 5.6... Try and purchase a faster lense and shoot using a monopod. Also not knowing your financial state if you cannot afford a faster (F stop) lense would a 1.5 or 2 X converter help to get you nearer to the action... Some of my images are available to look at here: [url]http://www.photoboxgallery.com/ChrisEversPhotography[/url] enjoy Chris |
[QUOTE=BenBirchall;2488]I
The biggest mistake would-be sports photographers make is to pull back from the action and try to include space for the action to flow or thinking they can crop into the shot. Ben[/QUOTE] Depends a lot on the medium you are shooting for. I agree that Bob's shot need to be a lot closer to the action, but there is nothing wrong with shooting a little wider to start with until you get the hang of it. You are better to have the shot in the first plce and have it a little smaller than having no shot at all because you have missed it. I've seen pros using a D1h (2.74MP) for football and cropping heavily and still using it for a half page in a newspaper. Newspaper is the least DPI because of the texture of the paper and therefor you can get away with 150dpi and jpeg level 5 or 6 and you would never notice the difference. If you are shooting for yourself and want to blow it up to a3 size then you can still get away with cropping it to half size on a D300. I agree with ben in saying that it needs to be a lot closer, but there is nothing wrong with leaving yourself options, especially if it's for sale! Regards GM. |
[QUOTE=GraemeMather;4640]Depends a lot on the medium you are shooting for. I agree that Bob's shot need to be a lot closer to the action, but there is nothing wrong with shooting a little wider to start with until you get the hang of it.
You are better to have the shot in the first plce and have it a little smaller than having no shot at all because you have missed it. I've seen pros using a D1h (2.74MP) for football and cropping heavily and still using it for a half page in a newspaper. Newspaper is the least DPI because of the texture of the paper and therefor you can get away with 150dpi and jpeg level 5 or 6 and you would never notice the difference. If you are shooting for yourself and want to blow it up to a3 size then you can still get away with cropping it to half size on a D300. I agree with ben in saying that it needs to be a lot closer, but there is nothing wrong with leaving yourself options, especially if it's for sale! Regards GM.[/QUOTE] I agree, sure you want the 'safe' action shot in the bag, but the practice of cropping in won't force you to get better. Forget about print sizes etc, shooting tight will kill the background and that always helps give more impact to a sports action shot. Of course each pic should be judged on its merits so there is always a place for wider action. Every rule has an opposite that works just as well!!! Ben |
Interesting points guys, I've been looking at an f2.8 200mm but when the action is at the other end of the field thats pushing it well beyond usefull. I can't afford what I need so will just have to make do with what I have.
I like the new tag G. Bob |
There is that train of thought Ben. I always get the safe shots to start with and then I think about getting closer.
Glad you like it Bob.... it's my new way of looking at photography. |
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