9. Drive Mode: Single
When your camera’s drive mode is set to Single or Single Frame it will only take one shot when you press the shutter release down. To take a second shot you have to lift your finger off the shutter button and then press again.
This is ideal for most shooting situations. The alternative is Continuous Shooting and in this mode the camera continues to take photographs for as long as you have your finger on the remote release button.
It is often used in conjunction with continuous AF mode to photograph moving subjects.
10. Image stabilisation: On
If your camera or lens has a stabilisation feature you should turn it on because it will help you to get sharper shots by compensating for the slight shaking that occurs when you hold it to take a shot.
It should be turned off if you put the camera on a tripod to hold it rock-steady.
11. Picture Style or Picture Control: Standard
Many DSLRs and CSCs offer a collection of settings called Picture Styles, Picture Controls or Photo Styles. These are designed to tailor image colour, contrast and sharpness to suit a particular scene.
In Landscape Picture Style, four example, the camera usually enhances green and blue while boosting the sharpness and contrast a little.
These settings do not control exposure and should not be confused with Scene modes that set appropriate shutter speed and aperture settings for you – as well the Picture Style.
12. Colourspace: Adobe RGB
A colourspace basically defines the range of colours that a camera can capture. Most DSLRs and CSCs offer two options, Adobe RGB and sRGB. Adobe RGB has a wider gamut which means the camera will capture more colours when this mode is selected.
Most monitors can only display the smaller sRGB colourspace and online labs tend to use it, so if you plan to have lots of prints made by a lab it may be worth switching your camera to sRGB so you capture images within the range that the lab can reproduce.
You can however, convert images to sRGB using photo editing software.